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O YA When Tim and Nancy Cushman opened O Ya in Boston in 2007, it was a different take on Japanese food for that city, with big-ticket omakase tastings based on Mr. Cushman’s personal approach. The husband-and-wife team soon developed a loyal clientele and earned high praise, including from Frank Bruni of The New York Times in 2008. Now, they have brought an edition of their restaurant to New York, having been lured by a hotelier. The gracious room, with a long counter and tables, combines rough brick, satiny wood and well-calibrated lighting. Mr. Cushman, who worked in Japan, offers two tasting menus, at $185 and $245. Both menus start with sushi, segue to some inventive sashimi, a mushroom dish, then wagyu and lastly foie gras. There are also East-meets-West desserts like custard with yuzu sherbet, matcha and fruit. “My dishes are based on tradition,” Mr. Cushman said. “But even though the Japanese usually serve sushi last, I start with it, to give people some bites of something substantial because they’re hungry.” The Cushmans know they are opening in a city that has no shortage of high-end Japanese restaurants or places serving elaborate tasting menus. “We’re not assuming anything,” he said.

120 East 28th Street, 212-204-0200, o-ya.restaurant